Goldfish Whirligig

This is a concept idea and not intended to be a pattern. The design is not done to scale and has not been tested.  There are a number of ways this concept could be used and the number of fish is only limited to how long or how much space you have on the whirligig. The concept is intended to show how a wire crank shaft might be used. The propeller may have to be scaled up in order to get enough power to turn the crank and the propeller it’s self could be designed with goldfish at the ends of the propellers blades. Be sure to use washers and nut on crank shaft to keep shaft in place as it turns.

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Mandala Pattern Illusion Whirligig

As I have stated before this is a concept idea only, not a pattern. It is a design that creates the illusion of dots that change color and makes a great kinetic art deco for the yard.

Basic Pivot for Whirligig or Weathervane

Basic Pivot for Whirligig or Weathervane

    In this post I wanted to go into more detail about the whirligig or weathervane pivot and how it is put together. The diagram below is intended as a basic guide and can be adjusted in size or scale according to the size whirligig or weathervane that you're creating. 

    For basic demonstration purposes this is a basic 12 inch pivot for whirligig or weathervane. Were using a heavy screw with threads that only go halfway up and a non-tapered shaft. The type of screw head does not matter as it will be cut off once the screw is installed in the vertical mounting board. Screw the screw into the vertical mounting board just enough to cover the threats. Making sure to keep shaft of screw vertical. It may be necessary to drill a pilot hole to help keep the screw straight, as this is what your project is going to pivot on. This should leave the upper half of the screw without threats exposed. Then using a Dremel tool (with appropriate safety goggles and other protective equipment) use a cutoff blade to cut off the screw head and a grinding bit to either round the top of the screw shaft or grind a concave dimple. Once you've completed your vertical board with pivot it is time to create the horizontal part of your pivot. 

    One of the important things to take in consideration before drilling a hole is the metal or plastic sleeve that will fit inside the hole. The metal or plastic sleeve should fit tightly in the hole but the screw should fit closely but not so tight as to inhibit the upper part of the pivot from rotating. Any wobbling in the rotation of the upper pivot will simply create excessive wear and erratic movements.

    At the bottom of the hole place a 1/4" hunting shot (slingshot ammo found in the sporting good section) or a small ball bearing, or BB depending on the size hole being used for the vertical shaft. The basic reason for placing the metal ball at the bottom of the hole is to prevent metal rubbing against wood and to reduce friction as the upper pivot rotates. Using a metal ball that is slightly larger than the metal or plastic sleeve and then placing the metal sleeve on top of the metal ball in the hole will help keep the metal ball in place.

     Using wood stock that is approximately 1/2" X 1/2" X 12" long measure 3 inches from one end and drill a hole.  Where you position the whole will depend on how you want the pivot to react to the wind. The closer you position the hole to the center, the more erratic the pivot will act. The closer to the end you position the whole the greater the force that will be applied not only to the pivot reacting to the wind, but also to the pivot itself. I have found that a quarter of the total distance gives a good balance to the pivot and does not put excessive strain on the pivot. 

    Once you have the metal ball and sleeve in place the two parts to the pivot should be ready to go together. You can put a small amount of graphite lubricant at the bottom of the hole before you put the two together. 

There you have it a basic pivot to mount your whirligig or weathervane on. For this and other ideas please be sure and check out our website www.nevadacrafter.com and our blog's at http://craft44.blogspot.com/ and http://nevadacrafter.blogspot.com/ and http://3dpenideas.blogspot.com/

    If you have any questions please be sure and post those questions to the blog and I will try to answer them as promptly as I can.

Spacewalking astronaut and space capsule weathervane

Spacewalking astronaut and space capsule weathervane

   So the idea or concept was to create an astronaut walking in space. At first the design seemed to be simple, but as I researched it more I quickly realized that I could take the design to whatever level of detail that I wanted. For presentation purposes I have chosen a simpler design than what an actual astronaut and space capsule would look like. It may be possible to create lifelike replicas but as this project would be exposed to the elements I chose to keep it simple. This way if the weathervane should become damaged it would be easy to make repairs. 
    I chose a weathervane design to minimize moving parts but also decided to add what is referred to as a wobble effect. This is done by adding a part of the design to a spring, metal band, or spring wire. In this case I'm using spring steel wire as the astronauts tether. The bouncing around motion that the astronaut will give in the wind will add to the illusion of someone actually walking in space. 
    The space capsule is actually cut out of 1/2" wood stock and the lower flame is notched so as to fit over the side part of the pivot. The thicker Woodstock allows you to make a more secure attachment to the pivot and the overlapping flame at the bottom will give it a more three-dimensional appearance. It should also be noted that I have intentionally left off the country of origin insignia on the side of the space capsule. This is so that you can put your own insignia on the side of the space capsule such as an American flag or some other countries insignia. 
    The pivot itself is a basic design and you can refer to the pivot design at the bottom of the following post. windmillhorses-weathervane-whirligig 


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Lubricating whirligigs and other mechanical projects

Lubricating a whirligig or mechanical project with moving parts.

    Lubricating whirligigs or mechanical projects can be a challenge. The materials you work with can vary from metal to wood and even plastic. Add to this a project that is exposed to the outdoor elements, wind, rain, dust, dirt and even the unexpected squirrel.

    The basic challenge is to keep moving parts moving and there are a few basic rules that you need to consider when you're creating mechanical art.

    The first rule of thumb that I was taught long ago, is to always try and work with like materials. Putting a moving metal part against a wooden part will always result in the wooden part eventually being worn away. Putting plastic or nylon parts in between will help lengthen the life span of your mechanical wonder, but will have to be periodically replaced. And always try to keep lubricated parts sealed when possible. Always use washers and spacers when possible to keep metal parts from rubbing against wooden parts. 

    As for the lubricants themselves, my go to lubricant has always been a pencil. The graphite used to make the pencil lead makes a perfect lubricant. Rubbing a pencil lead on a propeller shaft works wonders and is resistant to most weather conditions. Liquid graphite can also be used when you have metal to metal surfaces, such as brass tubing and brass welding rods used for propeller shafts or other metal to metal parts. 

    As you're creating these projects you should always keep in mind to create projects that can be disassembled. This will make it easy for the owner not only to periodically lubricate moving parts but also make any repairs or replace any worn parts that need replacing. Another option is to also include in your projects lubricating holes, as shown in the diagram above. These are holes or tubing that allow you to lubricate the moving part without disassembling and are usually mounted on the bottom side prevent collecting dust or water. 

    White lithium grease is also an optional lubricant. Normally used on bike chains and other outdoor moving parts such as door hinges. It also is extremely weather resistant and has the added advantage of being in a spray form. 

    The next lubricant is actually a solid and usually in the form of nylon washers. But as I have found over the years nylon washers and metal bearings can be very expensive to use. Using crazy straws and washers cut from milk jugs will work but keep in mind most plastics are designed to be biodegradable and may not last very long if exposed to sunlight. Crazy straws dipped in a pot of boiling water will immediately straighten and as long as they are cut to length and hidden inside the whirligig or project they will last quite a long time. Add some graphite lubricant and they will undoubtedly outperform most expectations. Also keep in mind when using plastic or even brass tubing you will want to keep the sizes close fitting. A loose moving part will wear much faster.

   

    I hope these tips on lubricating your mechanical art are of help. Please be sure and visit our website www.nevadacrafter.com for more tips and ideas on your next craft project.

Spooky Ghost Novelty

    As kids we have all played with magnets and how two like poles such as + and +will repel one another. I have used magnets in many projects since then and in a lot of different ways.
    In this project we are hiding magnets in a friendly looking ghost that hangs from a hangar over a wooden base with another hidden magnet in the base. We make sure that each magnet repels each other before gluing in place.
    As the ghost swings back and forth over the base, the ghost will move to avoid the magnet or magnets that are in the base. As a result the ghost does not move back and forth as you would think. I like using rare earth magnets because they are stronger and can be smaller and easier to hide. More than one magnet can be placed in the base to give additional and more unpredictable movements, just make sure all the magnets repel one another.
    This is one of my favorite novelties to create during the holidays. It makes a great conversation piece and easily amuses people who are not familiar with magnetism and how it works.

    As always this is a Nevada crafter.com project and has not been tested or created to scale. Adjustments and refinements to the project may be necessary.

It is presented here only as a form of entertainment.

[CAUTION: this project may contain small parts and is not intended for small children as these parts may present a choking hazard] 

Halloween flying bat mobile

Halloween flying bat mobile

 If it is done right it's a pretty cool project. A light tug on the pull string and the bat will appear to be flying. It makes a really cool decoration and center of conversation . The entire project is held together by chords or heavy string and works something like a marionette. NOTE: it should not be hung over a crib and should be kept out of reach of small children as the chords and strings can become a choking hazard!

   First drill your preliminary holes and attach the wings to the body using your chosen cord or string. Making sure that the corridor string you choose is heavy enough to support the weight of the project. Start with a ring or loop at the top, add four strings of equal length. (Length is about 18 to 24 inches )  Run two strings on each side of the bat through slits cut in to the dowel and use a dowel to keep your strings separated. You should now have two strings on each side of the dowel for the wings. The most difficult thing about a project like this is finding the right balance points. Adjusting the weight in the pull cord is usually the easiest but in some cases you may have to move the cord holes that support the bat. The two outer holes can be moved closer to the body if the body is too heavy or move them slightly further out if the wings are too heavy. Before painting and finishing your project it is best to do a trial run with everything assembled temporarily. If it is done correctly it should be balanced as shown above in the small diagram. Holes drilled in the wrong place can be filled in with putty or glue and sawdust. Be sure and take notes of where the correct balance holes are if you intend to make more than one .The body can be sanded down to remove some weight or a thinner wood stock can be used. Basically the body should equal the weight of the two wings. Metal washers can be sandwiched In between two pull cord bats or a thicker one that is hollowed out if extra weight is needed for the body. The pull cord bat is actually optional and should be included with the total body weight if used.

    Once you have your project balanced you can then proceed to paint your project. Keep in mind to use an equal number of coats of paint for both the wings and the body so as not to throw your weights off.

    One of the nice things about this project as it uses a single color paint with only a few highlights as desired. Can use plastic animal eyes to make it more realistic or paint a couple of thumbtacks.

 NOTE: If you want to make a quick trial mobile, it can be made out of cardboard or poster board.

    In the poster board bat I had to move the holes for the wings out further to accommodate the width of the pencil length dowel. I used paperclips on the wings to adjust the balance. This way once I have the weight correctly adjusted I could simply insert the paperclips into the foam part of the wings Instead of using the small bat on the pull cord I used beads as a counterweight. That is so I can add or subtract however many beads I needed to. I also used beads on the underside of the wings to keep the embroidery thread from pulling through.
     The size and type of material will always cause you to make adjustments in the location of the holes, the weights in the wings, and the counterbalance on the belly (pull cord beads). This is why you completely assemble your project. Paint, eyeballs and anything else you add to the project also adds weight.
    Once you have made all your adjustments and have decided on all the materials that you're going to use, it is a good idea to make notes and adjustments to your pattern. That way any copies you build in the future will be simple and easy.

      

    As always it should be noted that this prototype design is the property of Nevada crafter.com it is free to the public to use so long as it is not put into mass production. (Anything over 500) please also note that this post is copyrighted and Nevada crafter does not allow reprint, redistribution or republishing without permission from Nevada crafter.com

Whale whirligig / weathervane

Whale whirligig / weathervane

This original design was conceived for use with the wood from fruit and vegetable crates that grocery stores discard, but due to the use of pesticides and other chemicals that may have been used on the wood I no longer use this wood source. The Woodstock that I use is 1/2" or 5/8 " and can be scaled to what ever size you need. 

    For the water spout I give you 3 options, although I used the copper wire the most as it was more cost-effective. 

    [Note] The difference between a whirligig and a weathervane is that a whirligig usually has a mechanical or electrical action to it, whereas a weathervane is usually just a figurine that tells the direction of the wind. A weathervane will also usually position the pivot post so that the figure( animal, person, object) is moving in the direction of the wind and not in the opposite direction. If you wish to use this as a weathervane simply move the pivot post back so that the whale will pivot as if he is traveling in the direction of the wind.

This is a simple basic design that can be modified numerous ways but it was made simple so as to increase profits and to allow me to compete with other crafters. The design can be spray-painted with one or two colors and not a lot of detail and still look good. 

    The fiber-optic version is a recent concept that I have not had a chance to fully work out. So if you attempt to create it please keep in mind that you may have to experiment with it in order to get it to work right. This version also increases the cost of materials which you may not be able to recoup even though all of materials for the lighted water spout can be found at dollar stores. The LED light is cannibalized solar yard light and the fiberoptics is cannibalized from a battery operated light.

    Still, it is a good project to challenge your skills at whatever level you happen to be at. The whales design was originally cut from a single piece of wood with a coping saw, which was a lot of work to just cut out the tail and very imprecise. At the time a coping saw is all I had, but when I later invested in a scroll saw I found it to be a worthwhile investment. A scroll saw makes quick work of it in less than a couple minutes.

Tall Sailing Ship Whirligig

Tall Sailing Ship Whirligig

This is a concept design created by Nevada crafter.com Is mainly intended for entertainment purposes

and should not be considered a blueprint or plan.

However the concept is sound and with trial and error

it may be possible to construct a working model.

It is designed to be mounted on a fence post

and to work in light to moderate winds. Winds in

excess of 30 miles an hour may require smaller sails

or propellers or a more rigid mast. It is suggested that

each side of the sails be painted a different color,

such as white on one side and black on the other

so as to accentuate the spinning motion of the sails.

(Note this concept is not done to scale and its

size may need to be enlarged or decreased.)

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Dragonfly weathervane

Dragonfly weathervane concept design

This is an untested design, so adjustments and alterations may be required. It is a basic design that could be altered so that a propeller could be added if you wanted to turn it into a whirligig. The pivot pin has been mounted as far forward as possible so that the dragonfly is always flying into the wind. It may be necessary to move the pivot pin slightly back for added strength depending on average wind speeds. Here in Nevada wind speeds can gust upwards of 60 miles an hour or more and may require that the wings be mounted more flat or even a downward slant to prevent dragonfly from being blown off the pivot post.

Although this design is presented for entertainment purposes it could quite easily be used as a pattern to create the actual weathervane.

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FREE Mandala pattern

     Although some of my patterns I do reserve copyrights, this one in particular I decided to make public domain. This particular pattern is free to use however you see fit. It is one of my first attempts at a Mandala.

May it bring you happiness and prosperity.

Washers for whirligigs

Washers for whirligigs

FOR SAFETY REASONS NEVER USE THESE WASHERS TO REPLACE PARTS ON COMMERCIAL PRODUCTS. 

Always use the manufacturer's recommended replacement parts.

    Nylon washers are not very cheap, but I have found an alternative that cost next to nothing, helps the environment and works almost as well. 

    One of the things that I do on a yearly basis is to do preventative maintenance on my whirligigs and weathervane's. With all the moving parts and high winds, there is a lot of wear and tear on these mechanical wonders. What I found out is metal on wood wears out the most, so I use a lot of plastic or nylon washers. Although washers are not the most expensive part to a whirligig, they can cut into your profits.

    I know that this blog is for patterns, but I couldn't help, but share this money-saving and environmentally friendly up_cycling of plastic jugs. As for the patterns, I simply invested in an assortment of metal washers to use as a template for the various size washers that I use in my whirligigs. After all for a couple of bucks worth of cheap metal washers, I now have a set of templates that are worth the investment and will never wear out. I could've very easily used a compass to draw the circles, but I wanted something that was more consistent with actual washers.

    
(Be sure to use the appropriate safety goggles and other safety equipment when using rotary tools)

    I have found almond milk jugs and other opaque or heavier jugs seem to make the better washers. Anyhow, using a metal washer as my template and a black marker to trace around the metal washer, I create my patterns. Usually, I take the time to make several hundred at a time, so I have washers on hand for later. Then I simply rough cut them using heavy-duty utility scissors, dollar store kitchen scissors or a Dremel with a fine tip rotary cutting blade. (An X-Acto knife on a cutting board will also work as well.) I then finish the washer by sanding the edges or dragging a knife blade crossways against the grain to remove any ragged edges. A Dremel with an abrasive bit also works very well.

For those of you who like to do things the hard way I have included the following photo as a pattern.

Now keep in mind these washers will not necessarily take the place of a heavy-duty nylon washer and will most likely biodegrade over time if exposed to sunlight.

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DIY Drawing Compass

DIY Drawing Compass

A drawing compass can come in handy, but most are the size kids use in school. I quickly found out that here locally, there were no large compasses to be had. Not only do they come in handy for my own art work, but there is some demand for the compasses them selves. So I present the following approximate pattern and photos of the one I made. 

(Please note: pattern may not be exact or to scale and some adjustments may need to be made. The pattern is presented as an approximate to the original and is intended as more of a guide. It should also be noted that the pattern may need adjusting depending on materials used and thickness of wood or other materials used.)

Note: 1/4 " wood was used

I used glue to hold and position the mechanical pencil and metal point. I then used wire to hold them in place while the glue set and left them in place to add strength. Any point can be used for the fulcrum, such as a nail, push pin, ect. 

Of course when I am making them for sale, I take care to use much nicer material, such as brass nails, ect. The size circle you can draw depends on how long or how many joints. A second screw and wing nut in the middle of the fulcrum, but I find it just as easy to just make the compass bigger. 

    I hope this idea is of help to the crafters and artists out there that need to make big circles and great art. Thank you for taking the time to read my blog and please check out our other blogs and subscribe. Please feel free to make constructive comments or suggestions.

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Bookmark template and patterns for wood,metal, plastic,ect.

The following patterns are intended for making bookmarks. You can make your first bookmarks out of semi-transparent milk jugs or water jugs and then use those as templates or patterns for other materials such as old photographs, wood or metal. Inside designs can be either cut out or painted. Nail polish or plastic model paints are recommended if you are using plastic jugs as your bookmarks. With wood or metal you can use either a router, engraving or etching tool. 

The above pattern is designed to be printed out on a 8 1/2" X 11 standard paper in landscape mode. The bookmarks are 5 1/2" tall and 1 1/2" wide, but you can print whatever size you want. 

Additional information and video can be seen on www.nevadacrafter.com

     Please keep in mind that the patterns are copyrighted and intended for only your personal use or small-scale production. Any production over 1000 requires a 10% royalty be paid to Nevada crafter.com all foreign entities are required to pay a 15% royalty or negotiate terms with Nevada crafter.com
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Waggle wind wobble "bird"

Bird

Waggle wind wobble

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Butterfly wall mount

Butterfly wall mount

The wings are cut out separate from the body and the design can be either painted or cut out. The body is cut out and the eyes are made from wood beads mounted on dowels which are then attached to the body. a slot is cut in the side of the body for mounting the wings. 

please remember these patterns are copyrighted and the patterns themselves cannot be reproduced for sale.Production of the butterfly is limited to hobbyists and is not to be used for mass production. quantities over 100 require you  to purchase a production license.

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Frog whirligig weathervane

Frog whirligig

(please note this is an untested pattern and may not work as planned)

The pattern has an optional Lily pad weathervane. The actual positioning of the frog and fly have not been determined.  The place to put the frog and fly would have to be tested in the wind as the tongue propeller may act as a weathervane  lilly pad may not be needed.

    I have also contemplated using a small electric motor in the mouth and then attach propeller to motor. This would act as a generator which you could run wire from there to the fly. Using an LED for the fly's body making him light up at night. So I guess that would make him a firefly. 

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Dolphin whirligig wind gauge

Dolphin whirligig wind gauge

This pattern is partly conceptual. Only parts of it have been tested or assembled. Aditional modifications may be needed in order to get it to work properly.

Note wave is also1/2" wood

This is the original version 1998 not a lot of changes to the design. The round base is just for display.

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Witch whirligig weathervane

Holloween witch and cat whirligig weather vain

The following photo is how the unfinished assembled product should approximately look.

The above diagram is not an exact copy of the photo below and modifications to the pattern have been made. Note; the propeller blades need to be set at an angle in order for them to work. I would also recommend making the broom of the broom stick larger to act more as a rudder in the wind.

This following photo is of a finished hanging witch whirligig . The colors you paint it is up to you. I change the design each time I make one so no two are the same.

The following is a short video of how it acts in the wind.  If you have problems with video playing try a different browser such as explore.

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